Have a pumpkin frenzy

It’s that time of year again when supermarkets are overflowing with bright orange, beach-ball sized vegetables described by at least one store as ‘carving pumpkins’.

The implication is that, aside from Halloween lanterns, they really are not that good for anything. In this case it’s true that size matters. If you can get hold of its smaller, duller (in colour) cousin known to us traditionalists as simply ‘a pumpkin’, they pack much more of a flaviour punch and you will discover one of the culinary joys of the season.

And don’t just stop at pumpkins. There are a number of other weird and wonderful looking seasonal squashes to be found. Here are a few ideas to get you going:

1. A simple pumpkin soup can be easily knocked together with some onions softened in butter and chunks of pumpkin and potato, simmered in a good stock for 45 minutes. After whizzing it up in a blender (it should be thick and velvety) and popping it into bowls, chuck in a dollop of crème fraiche and a grinding of black pepper.
2. Squashes like a bit of heat and for a simple side dish chop your skinned pumpkin and toss it in some oil and a mixture of bashed up coriander seeds and dried chilli flakes. Bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour.
3. For an easy Thai curry soften your chopped up pumpkin in a pan with some onions and peppers and a little oil. Add a table spoon of green curry paste and a tin of coconut milk and serve with boiled rice or noodles.
4. If you are feeling more adventurous a delicious creamy, fruity curry can be made with grated ginger, garlic and chilli and a selection of spices (coriander seeds, cumin, turmeric). Fry some onions with the spices before adding the chopped up squash, some stock or water and a tablespoon of tomato puree. Cook for about half an hour then add some dried fruit (raisins or apricots are good) and a handful of cashew nuts. Continue cooking for another ten minutes or so, adding some double cream and reducing the sauce.
5. For the ultimate comfort food a creamy risotto made with chorizo and roasted butternut squash is hard to beat. Fry the chorizo slowly with some onions, add the risotto rice and coat thoroughly with the oil before adding stock a little at a time adding a handful of cherry tomatoes about half way through cooking. Meanwhile roast chunks of squash tossed in oil and well seasoned in a moderate oven. When the risotto is just about ready, add the roasted squash and a good grating of parmesan cheese to serve.
6. A twist on the traditional pumpkin pie is to blend roasted pumpkin flesh with eggs, cream sugar and vanilla essence to make a custard. Pop this into a pastry flan case and bake for forty minutes before topping with caramelised nuts.
7. Remember not to waste the seeds. Just toast them lightly in a hot frying pan with a little oil then season to taste with salt, pepper or a little paprika for a savoury snack.
8. Finally, what could be more autumnal than a pumpkin juice cocktail? You will need a juicer to really make this work but mix with a similar amount of apple juice, about half as much pineapple juice and add a little honey to taste. Pumpkintastic.