Great with or without custard

The quintessentially English rhubarb is coming into season and its glorious pink stems are a welcome arrival at Cookery School this month.

The sweetest, early stalks are those that have been ‘forced’, in other words, grown indoors to produce an early and tender crop. Forced rhubarb is grown locally in heated sheds in an area around Wakefield in Yorkshire known as the Rhubarb Triangle. The rhubarb is picked today as it was a hundred years ago – by candlelight – to allow as little light as possible to reach the plants and harm their delicate stalks.

In the magical glow of the forcing shed, it’s even possible to hear the faint creaking noise made by the rhubarb as it grows. This gorgeous English crop has long been cheering up British cooks looking for local fruit, at a time of year when all too much seems to be imported from abroad.

The delicate nature of forced rhubarb has another fantastic sustainable benefit – they cook much more quickly than the thicker stalks that grow later in the year. Simmer for just ten minutes or so on the hob, sweeten with a little sugar, and you have the most delicious breakfast compote. If you’re feeling more decadent, the stalks can be baked or simmered, then folded into lightly whipped cream to make a fool.

Rhubarb works beautifully well in sweet tarts, crumbles, cakes and ice creams. Not enough is made though, of how well the tart juices work in savoury dishes. At Cookery School, we make a wonderful rhubarb relish served alongside grilled mackerel. The sweet and sour relish balances the salty, oily mackerel perfectly. Locally grown rhubarb and locally caught mackerel – scrumptious and sustainable!

Grilled mackerel with rhubarb relish
Serves 4
4 fillets mackerel, cleaned
2 stems forced rhubarb
juice ½ lemon
3 tablespoons caster sugar
175mls/6 fl oz port
1 drained knob of preserved ginger, finely chopped
pinch of salt
pepper

Method
1. Season the fish with salt and pepper.
2. Chop the rhubarb into 1” slices.
3. Place the rhubarb in a pan.
4. Add the port, lemon juice, ginger, sugar and pinch of salt to the pan.
5. Simmer the mixture for about 15 – 20 minutes, until the relish has thickened.
6. Grill the mackerel for a few minutes, until the flesh begins to flake.
7. Serve the mackerel with the relish on the side.

Enjoy!

To find out more about Cookery School and their courses, go to www.cookeryschool.co.uk or call 0207 631 4590.